Link to MK1V Solid-State

Both lids open, serial No. hand scribed & difficult to see, could be 5, 15, or possibly 75

Note the white lettering against a gold background.

After this model came a larger box for lead storage etc. The lettering was changed to black

From my collection Serial Number 102 is the second one of this type made. 1958

Someone has striped the covering off, I will restore it at some stage.  I have some blue cloth, and am looking for some grey.  As far as I am aware only 100 of these were made before changing the face plate colour to blue, and placing the storage box on the left side, where it stayed thereafter.

Below is a blue faced version, the storage box has now been moved to the left. 1958.  I understand the blue cellulose paint for this batch, the lid having come off the tin, spilled over in the boot of Charlie's car.  He managed to salvage enough to complete the batch of possibly another 100 units.

(Charlie can you confirm?)

This is the more famous machine now with push buttons enabling more than one head to be selected, and individual gain controls for each input.

 C.1959

Same type machine here with rear lid closed

COURTESY OF STEVE RUSSELL, DERBYSHIRE, ENGLAND:

The record amplifier / bias oscillator from now on is a 6BR8 triode pentode tube.  The units previous to this used an ECC83 or 12AX7 double triode.  This model is from 1960 I have no idea how many of these were made, but I think several hundred.

Same as the previous machine this one, but graphics changed due to the new advertising agent Unsworth Murray.  This style machine was built at the new Offley Road factory.

It dates from 1961 and is from my own collection.  Serial number 2534

Next on the scene was the Black and Cream version.

Picture courtesy of Christopher Devine, an ex employee of H-H electronic with an interesting tale to tell !

 Below, a W E M logo version pretty much the same as above but now with a printed circuit board instead of the former tag-strip construction.

I am indebted to to Mr Alan Westby for the next 3 images of his superb machine.

Lids Closed

Rear view

An all Black version with the early type heads so I suspect hand wired tag strip construction

This one has a toggle switch for 220 - 240 volt selection.  I guess the normal fuse device is just a fuse or maybe it takes it down to 110 volts.  I have not seen one like this, if you can advise that would be great.

PCB of the later Black & Cream versions

PCB The valve / tube side

The earlier Blue and White Tag-strip view

This was about the end of the line for the Valve machines.

The Custom Copicat from about 1965.  Any I have seen of this model, the record amplifier / oscillator valve has reverted to the original ECC83 double triode configuration.  Possibly cost cutting, or 6BR8 availability problems.  Who knows?

Picture courtesy of Lester from Belgium ( Sorry Lester Haven't got your surname)

A nice full face view of A Custom Copicat  (ebay)

Here we have the chassis underside of a Custom Copicat. Note the oscillator valve on the right, is an ECC83 double triode, not the more common 6BR8 of earlier models.  You can also see to the left of the push button switch, the transistor part of the output stage.

WEM  Powercat, I suspect much like the Custom.

I have yet to see one of these in the flesh

I am inedited to Mr Piet Verbruggen of the Netherlands for the following Watkins Shadow pictures.  A budget machine I know little about, as I have never actually had to repair one of these to date.

The Shadow Lid Closed

I guess from 1963 - 64 same period as the later Black & White and The Custom

Nice image with open lid.  Note: only 2 replay heads, selected by the 2 toggle switches.  The tape on this model like that of the Italian made Meazzi is fitted inside out.  The heads are placed on the outer edge of the tape, whilst the tensioner wheel and motor spindle are on the inside edge of the tape.

Unlike all the other models, The Shadow has only one tensioning wheel.  Charlie must have made a 50% saving here !!

What he gained on the tension wheel, he lost on the erase magnets.  Here we have 2 magnets

A few savings here, only 2 valves used on what looks to be the same PCB as was used on the Black & White machines.   2 X ECC83 valves, no expensive 6BR8.  You can see on the right valve base, a bridge soldered from pin 9 to the adjacent track and  a cut in the track before it joins to pin 7.  This is to modify the heater connections from 6BR8 to ECC83.

Here is a top view of the board clearly showing the 2 valves and unused valve socket position.  With so few components on the board it's amazing it works.  Does any one have a schematic for this machine ?  I would be very grateful if you would share it with me.  Contact Amp-Fix

Finally here are two images of the PCB's from The Shadow & Black & White.  As you can see, they are exactly the same.

Piet, the owner of the above Shadow Copicat, has the Echo Tapper website devoted to Hank Marvin & Shadows fans, with suggested patches for all manner of echo devices.  I will post the link to his site on the links page.

I will post some pictures of The Super Shadow soon.   If you have any original pictures I could use of these units, I would be please to hear from you.    Contact Amp-Fix

Versions of most of these Copicat models were specially made for Guild U. S. A. they were made in a  single colour livery, eg. all blue or all black with graphics to suit.

Last updated 22nd February 2008

NONE OF THE MACHINES SHOWN HERE ARE FOR SALE

I am often asked where Copicat tapes can be obtained.

Tel 0208 679 5575   email: wem.watkins@btinternet.com    www.wemwatkins.co.uk

Or from most good music shops

These tapes work well, and should not be confused with some of the inferior quality tapes available elsewhere.  Look for the w-e-m logo

How To Make Your Own Tape Loops

If you are fortunate enough to own a tape splicer, you probably know how to use it. These instructions are for the less fortunate.

You will need some good quality ¼ inch recording tape, preferably with a shiny recording side and dull backing. Do not use thin long play tape, it is not very satisfactory.  (The above statement refers to modern recording tape, it has been pointed out to me that the dull side should be towards the heads.  I have not elaborated on this point too much in a deliberate attempt to avoid confusion.  However, if you have found an old 50's 60' 70's reel of SCOTCH, BASF, EMITAPE or any other brand of recording tape up in the loft, in the shed, local junk shop etc.  throw it away.  This will almost certainly be dull side to the heads.  I would not recommend you use it because the ferric oxide coating breaks down with age, it will become sticky and clog the heads probably make screeching noises and will not give good service.  If you would like some new tape to experiment with but can't justify buying a full reel, send me a postal order or cheque made out to Mr W. J. Beer to the address in the Contacts section for the sum of £2.35 inc. post & packing.  Include your name and address details.  I will happily supply you with a 6 meter length from which you should get eight tape loops   Thanks to Herbie Mitchell for pointing that out)

You will also need a few tools. A sharp pair of scissors, a steel rule, a new Stanley knife blade, some splicing tape or Sellotape. A nice smooth flat working surface. Not the kitchen table or worktops, the wife will get pretty upset when you mark it with the Stanley knife! A scrap piece of laminated worktop or glass is ideal.  For the best results, use proper splicing tape in preference to Sellotape.

1/ Cut a piece of tape 23 ¼ inches long. 59cm. if you prefer.

2/ Bring the ends together and overlap about ½ an inch.

3/ Cut the overlapped tape at an angle of about 45 degrees using the scissors. You should now have an

equal but opposite angle on both ends of the tape.

4/ Wet a couple of inches of the tape with your tongue, and stick it recording side down on your work

surface.

5/ Do the same with the other end, bringing both ends together in a good straight line with no twists in the

tape. I prefer to overlap the splice by about a 16^th of an inch 1.5mm. Ready made ones have a butt

splice. Check alignment with the steel rule.

6/ Cut an inch or so of splicing tape or Sellotape, stick it straight across the join keeping the join central.

Your tape should now be stuck together with a surplus of Sellotape on either side. Lay the steel rule

on top of the recording tape and in line with it. Put pressure on the rule with one hand, and trim off the

excess Sellotape in a single cut with the knife blade. Keep your fingers out of the way, you don’t want

any blood on your tape!

7/ Now do the same with the other side, smooth down the join, and there you have it.

Nothing magical about it, just requires a little patience, with practice you can soon make up a batch of ten or so

If you have a small overlap on the join, you will need to ensure the tape rotates in the right direction to flow over the heads without it snagging.

When the tape is fitted, the tension arm with the two wheels should be at an angle of about15 – 20 degrees to the right of vertical. Or the 1 o’clock position. Cut your tape to achieve this angle.

If too slack it will slip, too tight will strain the join and break the tape. It will also cause excessive wear to the heads.  Note: Only use Sellotape as a last resort the proper splicing tape is much better.

          Tape too long                   Tape too short                       Incorrectly fitted                   just right